At VauxWall, we have 3 rooms of climbing within the railway arches. In addition to general bouldering we have a 35 degree symmetrical Training board, Competition wall, Traverse wall, Circuit board, Permaset routes and a Campus Board.
We currently run an 8 week rolling reset, with problems set each week. We split the route setting down into 6 areas, this allows you to climb whenever and wherever you like with only one area closed. In addition to the areas we have 4 circuits of 20-25 climbs that spread throughout the centre. For our setting, we get in some top name setters from all over the UK such as Yann Genoux, Rich ‘Tricky’ Hudson, and Gaz Parry in addition to our experienced in house team.
- Starting hand holds are indicated by the tag on the highest hold you can start on.
- ‘S’ tag indicate standing starts
- ‘SS’ tag indictate sitting starts
- Green grade tags indicate standing starts of individually graded problems
- White grade tags indicate sitting starts of individually graded problems
- Both feet start on the rail or lower holds unless otherwise indicated
- Finish with both hands on the hold indicated with an ‘F’ tag or where not present, finish on top of the wall
- Palming, smearing, aretes, bridging and volumes can be used on all problems for both hands and feet
- Refer to circuit chart for information on grades
In Two out of Three of our arches, the routes are colour coded with a grade range from VB to V7+ containing roughly 25 problems in each grade set. We also have a Black, Yellow and Grink (Green and Pink) circuit which are sometimes used for our bi-monthly FunComp which range from approximately V0-V5, these are all tagged with their grades.
Orange/Blue Spots: V1-V2
Our Competition Arch is run a little differently, with tags next to the routes stating their grade. These range from V0 all the way up to V10 with the occasional appearance of a V-Futuristic (V10+)! The routes in the competition arch can be a little different in terms of movement but still are fun and definitely worth a try!
In the centre we use a mix of different brands and types of holds for each of our coloured circuits. Here we have a description and examples of the different types of holds you’ll find around VauxWall.
Jugs: A large incut hold (also known as a bucket). These are the largest and most simple holds to begin with as they represent large jug handles for an easy grip.
Crimp: A small edge hold which require a powerful grip! Crimping involves grabbing the edge with just your fingertips. Be careful! This is the most difficult type of hold and could cause finger injuries if you are not warmed up.
Slopers: A rounded of sloping hold. Slopers require friction between the hand and hold with an open hand grip.
Pinches: A hold which is held by squeezing between the fingers and thumb.
Pockets: A hold with a small hole of various sizes for you to place from one finger to all four.
For your power training needs our 35 degree training board is the perfect angle! Not too steep that it will throw you off all the time but not too shallow that it’s not hard enough. Everything on this wall is completely symmetrical for training both your weaker and stronger side. It is covered with a mix of holds from the likes of Beastmaker, Bleaustone and Core Climbing holds.
Climbers under the age of 18 must limit their use of the board due to the potential damage of growing joints. You can even record some of your favourite problems for others to try. Here’s some of our problems Louis Parkinson has set for you!
Circuit board and Traverse wall
For those seeking to improve their endurance, our circuit board is perfect for you! Our circuit board contains around 15 – 25 move routes ranging from F5-F7b to really work your forearms to help with those longer routes. You can even challenge yourself by doing more laps or switching to a different route after your lap to the increase the amount of moves as well as the difficulty.
Our traverse wall can also help with endurance and warming up. This low level wall has 6-8 routes graded from F4-F7a, moving from right to left. Over a longer distance this can quickly get you used to being back on a wall but can also give you a challenge with the higher grades.
Both the Circuit board and Traverse wall use the French route grading system rather than the Hueco bouldering (V) grading system, this gives a more accurate transfer to roped climbing at other indoor centres and outdoor sport climbing.
Campus board and Gym equipment
To become the best climber you can, additional conditioning is essential to gain fitness and maintain balance in your body. Our gym area includes a variety of traditional and specialist climbing equipment. For those climbers that have been climbing for over a year, are above 18 years old and are really wanting to push into those higher grades, VauxWall also has a Campus Board for building explosive power and contact strength. The campus board is also fitted with footholds beneath for varied exercises.